Building the logger

Now the fun really begins. Check that you have all the things shown in the picture, then dig in.

These instructions are for BODAQS A8

These instructions cover the BODAQS A8 logger design.

Soldering

You need some basic soldering skills for this. If you don’t have them, or aren’t sure, take some time to explore some of the many online resources and maybe do some practising. It’s not particularly difficult, but it’s not trivial either. Having some familiarity and confidence will help.

Solder header pins and sockets for the OLED display

Install socket headers in the PCB Cut a section of socket headers 4 sockets long and solder it into the PCB in the holes shown.

Install pin headers in the OLED display. Your OLED display will come with pin headers. If they are already installed, no action is needed. Otherwise, solder the pin headers into the holes in the display as shown. Trim the tops of the pins where they protrude through the OLED display so they stick up as little as possible.

Take care with the OLED display

The OLED display is fragile. Handle it with care so as not to crack it.

Connect the display and check the build so far

Connect the display. Plug the OLED display pin headers into the socket headers on the PCB. Then connect the PCB to a power supply with a USB cable. Press the and hold ‘Power on’ button on the board for about 3 seconds. The OLED display should now show the home screen. Check keypad operation. Pressing the right button in the main button cluster should enter the menu system. Pressing the centre button from the home screen should toggle logging on and off.

Preparing the case

Remove support material from the case using a craft knife. Make sure the material is thoroughly removed. Then install heat-set inserts if you are using brass inserts rather than self-tapping screws to close the case. If you haven’t installed heat set inserts before, read this guide before starting. The BODAQS A8 logger has a total of 14 inserts, installed in the positions shown.

Drill the holes if using BT2.5 self tapping screws

If you are using the sef-tapping screws option for the case fasteners, it is worth running a 2mm drill bit into the printed holes.

Install the keypad membranes. Carefully place the main navigation pad membrane in the lid of the case, ensuring the ridge on the outside edge is properly seated in the groove in the case. Cut the power button membrane in half and place it in the case.

Optional: fill the holes in the membranes

The “feel” of the nav pad buttons can be improved by filling the holes in the backs of the four direction buttons with caulking silicone. This is completely optional and a matter of personal preference.

Install the pins in the retainer plates. When installed, the larger end of the pins should face the lid / membrane and the smaller end should protrude out of the plate towards the PCB. Check that the pins slide smoothly in the retainer plates and if necessary, use a craft knife or fine sandpaper to remove any printing imperfections.

Fit the nav and power button plates. Carefully install the plates, with pins installed, to the lid. It is easiest to hold both parts up vertically so the pins don’t fall out during this step. Fasten the plates using M3 x 5 capscrews (or bt2.5 x 5 self-tapping screws, as applicable to your case).

Fit the acrylic cover over the OLED display opening. Carefully spread a small bead of clear caulking silicone in the inset section of the lid. Place the acrylic cover in the inset section and gently press down. Set the lid aside until the silicone has cured.

Remove the protective film from one side of the acrylic cover

If you got the acrylic cover as part of a kit, it has a protective film on both sides. Make sure you remove the film from the underside before installing it. You can leave the film on the top side for protection and remove it when the silicone is cured.

Assembling the connectors

Fit the connectors to the PCB. Carefully push the connectors into the top of the PCB, making sure that all the connector pins are aligned with their holes. The barbed legs on the sides of the connectors should ‘click’ into the large holes in the PCB.

Install the 3d printed end pieces over the connectors and tighten. Ensure that the connector o-rings are on the inside and sit in the chamfered edges of the holes.

Place the PCB and end pieces upside down in the lid. Ensure the end pieces are fitted snugly into the grooves in the lid. This is what keeps the connectors in the exact right place for soldering.

Solder the connectors to the PCB. Solder each pin, including the barbed legs on either side of the connector, to the PCB. The central cluster of pins is close together so carefully inspect each solder joint to ensure there are no solder ‘bridges’ between pins.

Removing solder bridges

If you find you have accidentally bridged two pins with solder, clean your soldering iron then apply it to the bridge. This is usually sufficient to remove excess solder.

Clip the legs of the button cell battery holder and the OLED display socket headers close to the bottom of the board, so they don’t damage the battery pack.

Install the components

Install the battery in the base of the case, with the wires facing towards the top end of the logger. Secure the battery to the base with double-sided tape, or a loop of duct tape sticky-side-out. If necessary trim or extend the battery wires. The recommended wire length is 70 mm.

Caution

Check the battery polarity again

Fit the CR1220 button cell then Install the OLED spacer and secure it with the M2 x 5 capscrews (or BT2.5 x 5 self-tapping screws) as shown. If you are using BT2.5 screws you may need to enlarge the screw holes in the spacer slightly with a 2mm drill bit before the threads will engage.

Install the OLED display by fitting its pins into the sockets in the PCB. The holes in the corners of the OLED display should fit over the studs on the OLED spacer.

OLED module variations

If your OLED module does not match the OLED spacer exactly, don’t worry - just trim the studs off the spacer with side cutters. The studs are nice-to-have but if they aren’t there it’s no big deal.

Install the PCB and case ends in the base of the case. Ensure that the case ends are seated in the grooves in the base. Route the battery wires as shown and connect to the JST connector on the dev board.

Optional but recommended: waterproofing

The water-resistance of the logger can be improved by applying a little caulking silicone in the case grooves. Partially fill the grooves in the lid and base with silicone (you can do this with a small syringe) and then scrape out any excess. You can do this with a [3d-printed spatula tool] or just by pushing your finger into the groove and running it around the edge (wear nitrile gloves while you do this).

Close the case and check

Carefully close the case and secure it with 4 M3x12 cap screws. Power the logger on and check the operation of the buttons.

Fit the downtube mount using 4 M3x8 cap screws. Power the logger on and check the operation of the buttons.

Install the plug and caps as shown. These help keep the logger’s electrical connections free of dirt and moisture when they aren’t connected to anything.

Congratulations!

Well done. Take the rest of the day off.